Benetton B186 BMW

1/24 Benetton B186 F1
By John Zweber

In 1994, Wave did a series of kits in 1/24 called “Legends of Formula 1”. I’ve always liked the livery on the Benetton B186 from 1986, and this can be built as raced by either Gerhard Berger or Teo Fabi.

I got an incredible deal on the kit, but then I had to build it. The kit is resin and white metal. Lots of hot water and clamps are needed to get the body into some semblance of straight.

The upper body is one piece and the lower is 2 parts, which became 3 when I sectioned the part under the cockpit to allow assembling the seat and ancillary parts. This also allowed the lower pieces to more or less fit the upper body.

The front and rear wings are white metal. Super glue and epoxy don’t come close to holding the parts together, so I now know how to solder white metal. Thank God for the internet! I never knew there was such a thing as low heat solder.

After trying to straighten the white metal suspension parts, I decided to replace 
some of them with brass and nickel silver rod from Albion Alloys. Fortunately, there were only a few tiny bubbles on the body to fill. I used Splash Paints 2K grey primer, Splash Brilliant White, Zero Benetton Green, and Splash 2K Clear. Then I applied the decals.

The colored decals were in amazingly good shape for being 25 years old. The white decals were not faded at all, but they were cracked. I finally applied some Microscale liquid decal film to hold them together. This was after trying to spell out Sisley on the side, in what turned out to be more like 40 pieces per side instead of 12.

After another couple coats of Splash 2K clear, I added some A/N fittings to the transmission, scratch-built the brake light from some leftover red sprue, epoxied the parts together, added a nice big bolt from RB motion to hold the rear wing on, and then I was done. Now it’s time for a Tamiya kit . . .

Porsche 991 RSR

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By William Bauer (for JayKay)
Details
Body: Scale Auto Slotcar
Chassis and Interior: Fujimi 997 R
Dash and Stearing wheel: Scale Auto
Decals: Slotfabrik
Wheels: Hobby Design
Tires: Scale Production
Build
First things first. There is no kit of this car.  You are going to use plenty of things to do this.  You must find and use your own reference materials
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Body: expand the wheel openings to fit the Fujimi tires, even though they will not be used.
Remove all the slotcar screw points and fill any holes. Separate window glass. Open front NACA duct and seal all of the fuel filler ports on the hood.  Extend the front of the dash by approx 1/4″. Close the rear wing positioning holes.
Chassis: Lengthen approx 1/4” in the Center to match the wheel wells. Remove approximately 3/4″ of the rear(engine) section.  Remove the front of the chassis in front of the wheel wells.
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Interior: Build the Fujimi interior as stock, but use the Scale Auto dash and steering wheel.
Wing:  I used the Scale Auto wing, but technically, it is too small. Use a Fujimi Porsche kit wing or a Fujimi BMW Z4 wing.
Wheels: Hobby Design 19″GT3 are best, but may be difficult to find now. Do not use the Fujimi kit wheels.
Tires: The Fujimi kit’s tires will make the car look like a 60’s muscle car.  Scale Production makes a decent 19″ front and rear set.
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Decals: These are Slotfabrik out of Germany. Notfor this body so U need to message them. They are also thick, so plenty of “melt your decal” needed. They are all on one sheet with no nice demarcation lines.  You will need to cut them close youself. No placement directions either.
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Notes
Time:  It takes way too long, but you’ll need it to cut and fit, cut more and fit. I used expoxy on this kit exclusively. You need those extra minutes to set things up.
Libations:  way too much, but you’ll need it. Not for the faint of heart, and keep working with it. Remember, the body was designed for quick assembly. Slow down and use real glue.

European Touring Cars

Ford+Sierra+XR4Ti+-6s

1/24 LIQUI MOLY Ford XR4Ti
by John Cully

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A set of updated (improved) photos of my recently completed XR4Ti model.

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1/24 1976 DRM Opel Kadett
by John Cully

Converted from a Quattroruote/Fabbri 1/24th scale diecast.

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This represents one of those ‘what might have been’ subjects, achieving very little. In similar vein to the 1970 Chrysler TransAm attempt, this car failed to live up to expectations. The men in grey suits thought that it would simply be a question of turning up at the circuits and being able to run competively from the starting flag against teams such as Zakspeed and GS.

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Insufficient time (and effort!) was given, and the plug was pulled after one year.

Building the Chaparrals

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Building the Chaparrals in 1/24 Scale
by Henry Trent

This collection includes Chaparrals 2A through 2H. 2G and 2J are on the way.

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Chaparral 2A, Sebring 1965 

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This model began as a Cox slot car body. I added a Modelers interior and wheels and opened up the body for the exhausts, which are made from aluminum tubing. Decals are from Patto’s Place. 

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Chaparral 2C, Nassau 1965

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The 2C body is from the LS kit. I opened the body panels and added mesh screens. 

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Chaparral 2D, Daytona 1966

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Based on the Monogram kit, the early 2D also has wheels and tires from the Fisher kit. The intake stacks are from the Revell parts pack.

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Chaparral 2D, Nurburgring 1966

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This late version 2D is from the Modelers kit, built out of the box.

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Chaparral 2E, Laguna Seca 1966

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2E – This is the Fisher kit – build out of the box.

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Chaparral 2F, Le Mans 1967

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2F – This is the Fisher kit – build out of the box.

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Chaparral 2H, 1969

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2H – From the kit by Mini-Exotics. 

Four Porsche 908s

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Four Porsche 908s in 1/12 Scale
by Dale W. King

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Porsche 908/2 (1969)
This one was based on a very crude kit out of Mexico that I had Motoi Shiozawa/Hapico get for me. I basically saved the body, which I heavily modified, and tossed the rest of the kit away (this was my intention before I even got the ‘kit’).

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You can see by the photo just a few of the mods made to the body.

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Scratch built pieces include : chassis/frame (the frame is done in brass), just about everything in the cockpit, the entire engine/trans, rear view mirror, rims, tires, tail & head lights, front head light covers and on and on. 

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The windshield was made by pulling clear sheet vinyl over a polished buck I had made. The body paint is Tamiya gloss white (TS26) and pink (TS25). It was rubbed out with Tamiya polish. 

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Even though I dumped the majority of the kit, I did use some of the kit decals. The scratch built wheels and brakes are held in place with the custom center lock nuts.

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Porsche 908/2 LH (1970)
The 908/2 LH is 100% scratch built from my own plans.

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The basic body was built up of individual pieces of Renshape cut out on my bandsaw, glued together and shaped.

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The tail lights are created out of Lucite, shaped, backed up with BareMetal and then painted with Tamiya clear red and orange.

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For head light covers I created patterns and pulled heated clear plastic over them. The rear brake air scoops were done the same way. The fuel injection ‘hats’ and tear drop shapes located on the rear deck were cast in resin from my own patterns. The rims are also castings from my own originals. The tires were individually turned on the lathe and the center lock nuts actually hold the wheels on. The disc brakes are made up from my own castings. I did artwork for the original p/e magnesium patterns and then made RTV molds. Things like the gas caps and head lights (both bezels and lenses) were turned in aluminum on a lathe. All the colors on the body were done using Tamiya spray paint ( pure white (TS26), bright red (TS49), chrome yellow (TS47) and racing green (TS43). Masking was done with Tamiya tape.

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I still have to complete the artwork for the decals and have them printed up on an Alps.

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Porsche 908/3 (1971)
This model, which is also totally scratch built from my own plans, was completed nearly 40 years ago. The body was carved in balsa wood then fiberglassed using 3/4 oz. model airplane cloth. Afterward most of the underlying balsa was removed creating a hollow shell. This is the one and only time I used this method.

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The frame was done in brass tubing. The roll bar and rear support bars were plated in nickel and then clear coated.

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The engine/engine bay was scratch built using Lucite, resin castings, styrene, brass, copper and aluminum. The rims, tires and many other components were cast up from molds I made from my original patterns. The body was painted using Ditzler automotive lacquer – I really miss that product…. it was outlawed many years ago here in California.

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The multi colored area that runs across the nose and up the front fenders and the black roundels with white number were hand painted. The lettering elsewhere was done with press type. Very “old school”…. pre computers. I was very fortunate to have full access to a real 908. I spent many hours photographing and measuring it.

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Porsche 908/4 (1979/80)
This started out as a rare styrene R/C body by Tamiya. The basic body was there but everything else had to be scratch built: chassis/interior, dash, seats, steering wheel, rims, tires, brakes, rear frame, turbos (these are resin copies made using Tamiya parts as masters), mirrors, etc.

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The paint was Ditzler white lacquer that was rubbed out with Semi Chrome polish. The decals were printed up by Derek Collins in his high school print shop in the early to mid 1980s. I wanted to do another version of this car but, even when I built this many years ago, I was unable to find another body.

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The real car body was a strange combination of a 908/3 nose, 936 cockpit surround/engine hump/air scoop and 917/10 rear fins and wing. Instead of the 908 fuel injected flat 8 engine it had a flat 6 twin turbo.

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When finished I photograph my models out doors in open shade on one of several 12th scale ‘sets’. I wanted to do a fifth 908 – a short tail coupe and thought I could base it on the Tamiya 910 but it turns out the bodies are just enough different that it wouldn’t work. Too bad . . . it would have been a nice addition.

Porsche 917 Le Mans 1970

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Porsche 917 Le Mans 1970 “Salzburg”
by David Sorensen

This was one of the resin kits from Mexico, and it was real crap.  It required lots of work to create a decent model. I only built it because I picked it up cheap, and I wanted a partner for my Gulf 917.

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I had to scratch-build the frame from plastic tubing.

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Now that it’s finished, it does look good on the shelf next to the Gulf 917:  

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And next to a 1/24 Salzburg 917:

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